Dia Tang Phi Lai pagoda a thousand year legacy

Ha Nam, a low-lying area at the southern gateway to Hanoi capital city, boasts a pleasant climate and abundant natural beauty. Not only famous for its long-standing cultural heritage, Ha Nam is also frequently mentioned for its spiritual system, with four renowned temples: Tam Chuc, Ba Danh, Phat Quang, and Dia Tang Phi Lai. Seemingly forgotten by time, the Dia Tang temple has now donned a new look, attracting numerous visitors from all over to worship and admire the scenery. The serene atmosphere at the temple, the peaceful and simple beauty, brings a sense of peace to the heart, as if untouched by worldly concerns.

Dia Tang Phi Lai pagoda, also known colloquially as Dung Pagoda, derives its name from the ancient name Dung of Ninh Trung village in Liêm Son commune, Thanh Liem district, Ha Nam province. Locals still recount that the pagoda was built in the 11th century with over 100 rooms. In the past, King Tran Nghe Tong chose the pagoda as his retreat, and King Tu Duc also visited it to pray for a son.

To date, the temple is nearly a thousand years old, gradually deteriorating and wearing down over time. It wasn't until the end of 2015 that Venerable Thich Minh Quang took over, renovated it, and renamed it Dia Tang Phi Lai Tu (Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva), implying that Bodhisattva Ksitigarbha came to this place, attained Buddhahood, and will not return. The ancient temple is situated on a hill overlooking vast rice fields, with its back against a pine forest, surrounded by nature on all four sides. Perhaps this is part of the reason why the temple was abandoned for a long time, remaining isolated and overgrown before being renovated and becoming known to tourists today.

How to get there
Dia Tang Phi Lai pagoda in Ha Nam is located 16km from Phu Ly city, the center of Ha Nam province, and 72.5km from Hanoi, a 1 hour and 21 minute drive south. Therefore, I suggest two convenient routes for both cars and motorbikes as follows:

Getting to Dia Tang Phi Lai Pagoda by car: Starting from Hanoi, take the Cau Gie - Ninh Binh expressway to Phu Ly, Ha Nam via National Highway 1A. From there, drive straight for another 12km to reach the pagoda; the journey takes about 1.5 hours.

To get to Dia Tang Phi Lai Pagoda by motorbike: Hanoi -> Nuoc Ngam Bus Station -> drive straight on the old National Highway 1A -> Van Dien -> Thuong Tin -> Van Diem Train Station -> Phu Xuyen -> Cau Gie -> Phu Ly city towards Provincial Road 495 to reach the pagoda -> Dia Tang Pagoda.

Dia Tang Phi Lai Pagoda is a surprisingly harmonious blend of structures and nature. Behind it lies a forest, beside it a small, calm pond, and within the temple grounds are flowers and trees commonly planted in sacred spaces. Not ancient and moss-covered, the temple, with its deep brown hue, evokes a sense of serenity and transcendence in this earthly realm. Free from noise and dust, far from the hustle and bustle of the city, devotees and travelers alike have the opportunity to find peace, immersing themselves in nature and the beauty of the landscape. All that remains is the scent of incense carried on the breeze, the sound of the temple bells, and the rhythmic chanting of prayers, all of which bring a sense of inner peace.

The Sea of Suffering and the Twelve Circles: Passing through the gate into the temple courtyard, visitors will be surprised by the pristine white expanse before their eyes. Instead of the red brick paving found in most temples, the ground at Dia Tang Temple is covered ith white pebbles. Beside the courtyard stands a sign that reads "Sea of Suffering". Twelve circles drawn on the pebbles in front of the main hall symbolize the twelve links of dependent origination, with the pebbles representing meditation. All of this is evidence of and closely connected to Buddhism.

The temple complex: Like most temples and pagodas in the Northern Delta region, Dia Tang Pagoda is built in the traditional column and gable roof style, with intricately carved details. The main hall (Tam Bao) is the largest structure in the temple, dedicated to the Bodhisattva Ksitigarbha. To the right is the Ancestral Hall, where the 42 founding abbots of the pagoda are worshipped. Next to it are a small shrine dedicated to the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, the Venerable Master, and the Holy Sages; living quarters for monks, nuns, and lay Buddhists; a lecture hall for daily sermons by the abbot and for meditation retreats; and finally, a guesthouse for visitors and those participating in retreats and other experiences at the pagoda.

Admire the artifacts of the Ly-Tran dynasties: The pagoda currently preserves nearly 100 earthenware, porcelain, and terracotta artifacts with diverse colors and patterns, identified as artifacts from the Tran dynasty, with a few patterns from the Ly and Le dynasties. Among them are many types of bricks and tiles carved with lotus flower, dragon, and phoenix motifs, along with two sets of mythical creatures recreating historical events from the Ly-Tran dynasties.

The path to the mountaintop: conquering the temple's peaks along the stream requires great perseverance from the traveler. Sections are climbed using ropes, others involve crouching and crawling through caves, and there are nearly 20 rest stops along the way. The meditation gardens are paved with white stones or covered in green grass, offering spaces for enjoying tea, relaxing in hammocks, or sitting on benches to admire the temple from above. At the summit of Phi Lai Mountain stands the Pho Dong Tower, erected during the Ly-Tran dynasties, the resting place of 40 generations of abbots.

Dia Tang Phi Lai Pagoda, a sacred place, has become an integral part of the lives of the people of Ninh Trung and Liem Son, and a spiritual destination for visitors from all over. Every first and fifteenth day of the lunar month, as well as on Buddhist holidays, people come to the temple to offer incense and pray for peace and health, a habit and tradition that has lasted for many years.

Tailormade Vietnam Tours (TVH) is a local Vietnamese company established in 2006, often praised for excellent customer service, fast response times, and ability to create custom, reliable tour packages for families across Vietnam and Indochina.

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