Vientiane is more colourful and cheerier than any communist European capital. Most places of interest are concentrated in a small area around parallel Setthathirat and Samsenthai roads, including the commercial and administrative districts. Its easy to explore on foot along shady avenues and streets stretching from the pleasant Mekong riverside to Talaat Sao, the morning market.

Surrounded by a lush garden, Wat Si Saket is one of Vientianes oldest temples, although not the oldest Buddhist site - many temples were destroyed during wars in the 19th century. A large wat bearing a strong Thai influence with some fine, but fading Buddhist murals, its home to over 6000 Buddhas of varying sizes and styles. More tranquil than most temples, its worth lingering for a few extra moments in the pleasant garden before returning to the dusty streets.

10 minutes walk west along Setthathirat Rd is Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan, one of the centers of Buddhist theology in Laos. The place never seems overrun with monks. Interesting features include intricate carvings, a large bronze Buddha and a big drum atop a tower.

Hop in a tuk-tuk for a 10-minute ride, via the Arc de Triomphe-like Patuxai, along some could-be-grand avenues to Pha That Luang, a very-sacred, castle-like symbol of Buddhism and the Laotian state. The stupa dates back 400 years, although it was rebuilt early last century. The design embodies Buddhist ideas about ascending to Nirvana, and of course depicts many Buddhas. Theres a few grand buildings, apart from Pha That Luang, the symbol of national sovereignty and Buddhism, the unfinished 1969 Patuxai national monument, and the new Chinese-financed cultural center.

Charting the history of the Pathet Laos march to victory, the Lao Revolutionary Museum is something of a gem as there aren't too many communist propaganda halls like this left. Housed in a sprawling mansion on Samsenthai Rd, exhibits include maps, uniforms, and guns used by Laotians or imperialists. There's also a small exhibition on Laotian culture, geography and geology, which seems to be an afterthought. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, weekdays.

Once the Royal Temple, Haw Pha Kaew houses many royal religious artifacts including a throne, manuscripts and bronze drums. Also here are a number of Buddhas, plus a good collection of Laotian Buddhist sculpture. Although it is no longer a temple, some still make offerings on top of a wooden Naga. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Kaysone Phomvihane Museum is dedicated to the life of the Pathet Lao leader who directed wartime communist forces from a cave in northeast, and became Laos first post-war leader. Its a cult-like place, following his life from a boy in southern Savannakhet province to guerilla leader and architect of a postwar workers utopia. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Entertainment and Eating Out
Although Vientianes nightlife and dining scene has picked up over the last few years, the place isnt overrun with clubs and restaurants. Most streets are deserted by midnight. A few bars and plenty of restaurants, many al fresco and informal, line Fa Ngum St along the Mekong between Chao Anou and Mahosot streets. One block north along Setthathirat Rd and the streets leading to it from Fa Ngum, are more restaurants and bars, including the well-established Sam Lo. These tend to be more upmarket, but still very good value.

Chess Club on Mahosot St is worth seeking out. There are a few bakeries along Setthathirat and Chao Anou. Just off Setthathirat is Nam Phu, the Fountain Circle, which is a pleasant place for drinks. Around it are a few Italian and French restaurants, plus a Swedish bakery.

Talaat Sao, the morning market, actually runs all day and is a great place to join locals for a bowl of noodles or grilled chicken. Baguettes with local pat are also plentiful here.

In the evenings, Chao Anou St and a few of the side streets draw stalls selling bean curd and noodles. There are also a few restaurants here that do noodles and chicken or duck rice.

At the far end of Chao Anou, beyond Samsenthai St near Khun Bulom St is a night market selling pungent curries, grilled chicken, spicy salads and other specialties. Often takeaway only.