Entering and leaving the Phnom Penh's major attractions involves running the gauntlet of frenzied beggars and moto drivers.

The most famous landmark of the city is the Silver Pagoda and the Royal Palace. This relatively new complex is worth seeing but it feels a little artificial and lacks soul. The highlight would be the treasures within the Silver Pagoda. Impressive is the Emerald Buddha, but more memorable is the silver-tiled floor. Rather annoyingly there are extra entrance fees for cameras and camcorders but photography is not allowed in the best areas.

Around the corner is the intriguing National Museum. The museum houses a complete display of Khmer artifacts including superb multi-armed statues of Shiva, bass reliefs and later colonial pieces. A great appetizer for those heading on to Angkor. In the evening the museums swarms of resident bats often trail off the roof into the sunset.

The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek is a uniquely Cambodian experience. It is here that the Khmer Rouge killed thousands of people and dumped them in mass graves. This somber site has a stupa holding 9000 skulls, mass graves and a tree on which queues of children were smashed to death. This isn't a cheerful visit and it can feel creepy or even tasteless, particularly as its becoming a tourist spot. Nevertheless, powerful and humbling. Note: watch out for snakes weaving in and out of the grass.

Even more disturbing and sometimes sickening is Tuol Sleng Museum. This is a truly terrible yet gripping place. The museum is the former genocidal prison camp of Phnom Penh. The former school was converted to hold hundreds and has been kept much as it was. Photos bring a personal dimension lacking at the Killing Fields. Thousands of helpless faces peer desperately from the past, grisly tortured corpses lie splattered over racks, and the nightmarish paintings come straight from hell. Absolutely gross. But essential viewing for those with a strong stomach.

Sitting on a mound in the centre of a roundabout is Wat Phnom. This temple is the historic birthplace of Phnom Penh. There's not much history left as its been continuously rebuilt but its still reasonably enjoyable. Wat Phnom draws tourists, worshippers and crowds of vendors, touts and beggars. Very touristy.

Wat Ounalom near the Royal Palace was built in 1443 to house an eyebrow hair of the Buddha himself. It was smashed up by the Khmer Rouge in 1975 but has since been restored to at least some of its former glory.

The Independence Monument seems to be listed in every guide as an attraction. The truth is its just a glorified roundabout. Certainly not worth visiting - to do so would be trespassing anyway. If you're really keen you can view it from across the road, or ask your bemused driver to do a couple of extra circuits.

Tourist Information Offices
Basic tourist information is available at the airport, but not much. Along the Mekong riverside is the tourist information centre - a bit of a waste of time. For the latest useful information, pick up a free copy of the Phnom Penh Visitors Guide from hotels and bars.

Entertainment and Eating Out
Phnom Penh is lively and there's a pretty fair choice of eating and entertainment options.

The best place to hang out in the evenings is down by the Mekong riverside with its long line of mid-priced restaurant-bars. There's not much between them - prices, food and ambience are consistently good. The Garden Bar is a casual Mediterranean style spot and Wagon Wheel is a good US/German restaurant with a broad and satisfying menu.

A popular open front pub overlooking the Mekong with a traditional English menu is the Pink Elephant. Its cheap and lively with regular live sports and sidewalk seating. The mass of waiting motor drivers, flower sellers and hungry gawping street children can be off-putting but its a good place for a pint while soaking up Phnom Penh.

There are several good pizza joints in the capital. Baggio's pizza is reliable and constantly full and Happy Herbs is renowned for having the widest range of toppings including cannabis.

An old favourite is the dependable FCC. Prices are high but the mood, colonial dcor and river views make for a good night out. The Heart Of Darkness bar away from the riverfront is a magnet for expatriates - its busy with live music and a good crowd.

Sharky Bar is a happening disco with a few pool tables. A rather suspiciously high single young female to bald foreign businessman ratio exists here. Its the same deal at the pulsating Martini.

Its not that easy to get Khmer food in Phnom Penh as the Khmer Rouge killed the country's top chefs and wiped out most of the culinary culture. You can sample what's left of it - a blend of Chinese and Thai - in Pon Lok restaurant on the riverfront. Authentic local eateries abound just across the Friendship Bridge. Cheap and lively, but watch your belly.

The best Chinese restaurant in town is the fine Xiang Palace in the Intercontinental. Not surprisingly there are some good Thai spots in town - the choice pick is presently Baan Thai.

There are a few Japanese restaurants, all are horribly overpriced and seem only to survive by drawing homesick Japanese. Nice enough but only worth it if you're hellbent on sushi.

Cultural shows are unfortunately quite scarce. The Chatamuk Theatre regularly hosts traditional Khmer dance and the Cambodian does a traditional dance buffet each Friday.

Few tourists bother with Cambo Fun Park opposite the National Monument. This bright and lively fun fair is popular with teenage Cambodians and has lots of fairground rides and games.