Luang Prabang isn't a museum piece, it's a thriving town with two major markets and a few smaller ones that draw tribal peoples from the mountains everyday. The town offers little to do after 10 pm so it's well worth clambering out of bed at sunrise to watch monks lining up to receive alms, and to smell the smoky cooking fires and fragrant dishes being prepared for breakfast.

Along the finger of Luang Prabang bordered by the Mekong and Khan rivers are a string of temples, 14 in total, almost cheek-by-jowl as the leafy peninsula is less than 1 km long. Near the finger's end lies Wat Xieng Thong, one of the oldest and largest temples in the town. Over 400 years old and a classic of Luang Prabang temple architecture with its low-slung roof eaves and gold-leaf ornamentation, it has strong royal connections.

Along the way back to Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, are many other temples that attract few visitors and are worth a visit if for nothing else than to rest weary legs in a tranquil place. Sitting in a temple compound around dusk, visitors are likely to hear the deep, hypnotic, murmuring chants of monks praying. Wat Mai is renowned for its religious artwork, much of it in gold leaf.

Next to Wat Mai is the Royal Palace Museum, which is housed in a mansion that was once the royal palace. Well worth a visit, it's surprising how humble the royal family's private quarters are. Though packed with ceremonial items as well as paintings and day-to-day items like cutlery, the most interesting displays are probably the gifts from other countries. Those from the US are unique to the war era, even including chunks of moon rock.

Wandering around the old quarter packed with temples and colonial properties, it's not hard to stumble on some minor but worthwhile project such as the restoration of street side lanterns along a few alleyways.

Standing over Luang Prabang is the holy hill Phu Si. On its lower elevations are a few small temples. A 15-minute climb to the summit leads to That Comsi, a stupa where some royal remains are interred. The peak affords commanding views of the town, the rivers and the surrounding mountains. It's popular at sunset for visitors, although sunrise visitors are treated to the site of mists and smoke from cooking fires curling upwards into the sky.

Entertainment and Eating Out
Most restaurants and cafes are along Phothisalat Rd, which runs like a spine down the peninsular. The focus is on Lao food and local specialties, although it's possible to get Western food. Some bakeries sell some good cakes, which go well with a cup of Lao tea. There are also a handful of street stalls scattered near the Royal Palace Museum serving noodles and fried spring rolls.

On Kitsalat Road, near the river by the post office, is a small market selling fresh produce. In the evening, salads, grilled chicken, fish, noodles and desserts take over.

Luang Prabang isn't renowned for its nightlife. There are a few hotels host discos, although their opening times can be irregular.