Buon Ma Thuot
Tucked
deep into the
Central Highlands, about 360 km from
Saigon, Buon Ma Thuot (pop. 200,000) is much farther off the beaten track
than
Da Lat
and sees far fewer tourists. But Buon Ma Thuot is
certainly worth the trip. The area is an elephant training center
(here's where to ride an elephant in
Vietnam!).
The
region is home to a number of ethnic minorities, including the Rhade
and Jarai groups. The area also boasts some impressive waterfalls.
Buon Ma Thuot has the distinction of being the site of the last
major battle between the North Vietnamese Army and South Vietnamese
troops during March 1975. As a testament to that battle, the first
North Vietnamese Army tank to enter the city is perched in the
center of town as a monument to Buon Ma Thuot's
"liberation." There has been talk of moving the tank into
a museum, and indeed, some travel publications say it already has,
but the tank still has it's turret pointed skyward, looking still
quite capable of spitting out a 120mm shell.
Buon
Ma Thout makes a great base for trekking to ethnic villages. The
longhouses of the Rhade and M'nong groups are particularly
impressive - try to spend a night or two. A popular stop is at the
Rhade
village
of
Buon Tuo
, about 13 km from town. Thirty-five kilometers to the north, in the
village
of
Ya Liao
, can be found a 13th-century Cham tower. In town, visit the
hilltribe museum on Me Mai Street, which houses artifacts, ancient
weapons, clothing and other relics of the Montagnard and Rhade
ethnic groups.
The
local minority villages are also great for
elephant rides. Elephants
can also be found in the wild at nearby
Yok Don
National Park, at 58,200 hectares,
Vietnam
's largest. Don village is the gateway to the park and has turned
into something of a tourist trap (at least for these parts).
Elephant rides are available for a few hours or a few days from
local M'nong and Lao trainers, who descend from generations of
families training elephants to transport logs and, more recently,
tourists. Expect to cough up about US$15 per hour or US$60 per day.
Four-day expeditions into the jungle will set you back as much as
US$500.
Surrounding
waterfalls worth a visit include Drai Sap, Draylon, Drayling and
Draynor Waterfalls. The best are found at Drai Sap. The fodder of
picture postcards, these are the falls you see on most Vietnamese
calendars. About 12 km from Buon Ma Thuot, the falls aren't
particularly tall but are expansive and dramatic. It's tempting to
swim in the river pools formed at the base of these falls - and many
folks do take the plunge - but the surrounding and submerged rocks
are jagged and treacherous. It's easy to get yourself quite cut up.
There's also a disappointing amount of litter, but Dac Lac officials
seem to be cleaning the place up. The Drai Sap falls are accessible
by hired car or minivan, followed by a moderately strenuous
half-kilometer hike.
Though
located about 200 km farther north than Da Lat, Buon Ma Thuot is at
a lower elevation and is warmer year-round. Neither does it possess
Dalat's over commercialization (nor Da Lat's beauty, on the other
hand). Coffee is the major cash crop here, however, this mountainous
region
is heavily deforested, the hillsides bald and brown during the
winter months. Much of the region's wildlife has been driven away by
deforestation or through the misfortune of getting stuffed by
wannabe taxidermists. The best time to visit Buon Ma Thuot is during
the dry season, between November and May. Though the scenery isn't
as lush as it is during the rainy season, it's a lot easier to get
around!
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